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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.